Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Spring (Fashion) Forward




I have always been a firm believer in making a statement with my wardrobe. Even during my time in the corporate world, I would go against the grain and dandy up my drab Brooks Brothers suits with bold ties and colorful socks. Now that I am liberated from a stuffy dress code, I have the freedom to be breezy with fashion and experiment with my look.

Spring has sprung and it’s time to put your wools in hibernation for the next 4 months. While you don’t need to give everything from last season to charity, a good majority of it has to go if you want to stay current. You can hang onto your basic cotton and linen blazers from last year as they are a staple for spring/summer and are always good to throw and go for your weekend excursions, but you’re going to want to add some new ones in the latest cuts and colors for a fresh look. Flat front slacks are still preferred over pleats, but we’re seeing the return of the cuff in many collections. Strictly for the bold, blazers paired with shorts is a spicy trend for the warm days ahead.

Here are my picks for the season from three distinctly different designers. The one thing they have in common is a distinct look.

When it comes to weekend wear, look no further than Michael Bastian for your casual needs. Bastian, a recent nominee for the 2009 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year, has redefined American sportswear much in the way Ralph Lauren did back in the day and his latest collection is American with a European twist. Taking inspiration from the 1976 film The Lifeguard, the new line from the New York designer is chock full of shorts, cutoffs and swimwear bottoms in an array of colors. Paired with cotton blazers, shirts and sweaters, the look is retro with a modern twist. For the office, Bastian offers lightweight suits, blazers and trousers in neutral colors. Worn with a striped shirt and skinny tie, this look is casual Friday which is appropriate for everyday. For evening you will find swanky tailored suits and shawl collared sports coats paired with tuxedo shirts and neatly tied bowties.

When it comes to classic style with an edge, Ermenegildo Zegna has lead the way in men’s wear since 1910. The Italian fashion house produces their garments with impeccable attention to detail. For Spring the Zegna house is offering their signature two-button suits in 15MILMIL silk blended with 15 micron wool, 600 silk with trofeo wool, poplin weave and silk blended with cotton, cashmere or linen. While earth tones are the predominate palette, you will find sophisticated black and crisp white through out the collection. They also bring back the double-breast, the mandarin collar and peak lapels sparingly, but effectively. Sportswear doesn’t have to be casual and at Ermenegildo Zegna they design tailored pieces in linen, cotton, silk, seersucker and leather. If you don’t want to buy off the rack, the tailors at Zegna will custom tailor your suits, sports jackets, pants, shirts, and ties using their established artisan method. Made to order clothing can be delivered within a few weeks of your fitting and is well worth the short wait.

Best known for his work as creative director for both Gucci and Yves Saint-Laurent, Tom Ford put the glamour back into women’s high fashion. After parting ways with both houses, Ford opened his own house and began designing accessories. He has now turned his attention to menswear which is designed with just as much extravagates as his work in women’s couture. For spring 2009, Ford shows us classic Tom and while the clothing is not made for the reserved man, it is extremely suitable for those wanting to be overtly conspicuous. It’s not the fact that the vibrant colors haven’t been used in menswear before; rather it’s the placement of color which makes a daring declaration as Ford pairs a crisp white blazer with both ruby red and rose pink trousers. Suits are featured in solid red, tan and bold plaids with trousers cut so they fall just above the ankle. All jackets feature very wide peak lapels in silk, wool and cashmere. While other designers are going skinny, Ford’s neckwear is wide, I mean really wide. Paired with hand tailored mini-check shirts, these plaid ties are loud and proud.

There are many choices for spring and hopefully one of these three designers will "suit" your personal style; pun intended.

As will appear in Kasanova Magazine May 2009

Tony Engelhart

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