GUESS Tribal E/W Satchel

While some bags are wallflowers, others are the life of the party and this Tribal Satchel by GUESS definitely falls into the latter category.

This embossed faux snake skin purse comes in your choice of classic grey or flirty purple. The top zipper entry opens up to an interior zipper pocket which features two slide pockets and a separate cell phone compartment. Besides being extremely roomy, with double handles, silver embellishments and signature GUESS fabric lining, this bag is an instant classic that will last more than one season.

Written for Bagbunch.com

Heating Up

So, here it is, the middle of summer and you still haven’t got a clue of what’s hot and what’s not. If your idea of fashion is a t-shirt, cut off Levis, black leggings and combat boots, it’s probably best if you flip the page. But if you have any interest whatsoever in this year’s fashion trends, read on.

Fashion is once again recycling, but don’t try and get away with shopping at the local thrift shop to look up-to-date. Some of this summer’s trends date back as far the 1920’s, but designers have skillfully updated them for a new take on an old look.

Safari inspired dresses, jackets and shorts are a chic choice for summer; a recycled trend for sure as it maintains the traditional details like flap pockets, epaulets and utilitarian self-belts. But what updates this trend for is color, “Look for modern interpretations in unexpected shades like white or a feminine pastel,” said Gregg Andrews, Fashion Director for Nordstrom. “A safari-inspired look is perfect for women of any age and is a sophisticated choice for warm weather career or casual dressing.”

Mismatch prints are for the woman who wants to the world she’s here and she’s daring! That’s right, just as in home décor, it is now acceptable to mix prints.

Higher waist lines are back after several seasons of waist lines that fell almost past the derriere. “This is good news for a lot of woman, because the higher waistline elongates the lower part of the body making a woman appear taller and slimmer,” says Andrews. “High waistlines are often balanced by a wider leg on a pant or a fuller skirt shape.”

Art and fashion merge as painterly prints are a huge trend for summer. From abstract brush strokes to impressionist florals, these bold prints give a fresh, modern look to simple dresses and tops, “If you're print-phobic you can still embrace your inner artist by updating your summer basics with a new printed handbag or shoe,” suggests Andrews.

Dresses continue to be a summer essential. “A great option to a traditional sun dress is the new day gown or maxi dress,” said Andrews. “The long day dress is uber-chic and has an air of casual sophistication. Worn from ankle to floor length, these simple, fluid dresses are easy to wear and look great with flat sandals.”

This season, vibrant color is a key element in ready-to-wear and colors called Acid Bright are being worn in combinations for a bold statement. If you’re not quite ready to stand out like a neon sign, take baby steps with a colorful shoe or handbag.

Retro is one trend that continually pops its head up and this year is no exception. “Designers were inspired this season by styles from past decades and the trends we are seeing today have influences from the 1970's and 80's. Many designers are fashion historians and they reinterpret iconic looks from the past,” said Andrews. “These new collections are designed with a modern sensibility, they're not just a retro re-do.”

For those women who aren’t afraid of standing out, hot items from yesteryear this season include: The 1920’s Jazz-age flapper inspired trend. This style puts fun and glamour back into ready-to-wear. Underwear as outerwear was introduced in the 1930’s and made a huge comeback six decades later. Camisoles and robe-like coats and jackets are continuing to be an important element of style in 2008. Shoulder pads were huge in the 1980’s and are making a subtle comeback this year. This time, they are less boxy and being done with short sleeves unlike the power suits worn by Leona Helmsley back in the day.

Shoes, shoes, shoes; an easy way to update an older outfit or give a punch to a new one. One of Andrews’ picks for summer are the wedged heels, “We are seeing casual, chunky retro looks with heels covered in natural materials like cork, straw or wood,” said Andrews. “For a sleeker urban look the wedge can have a patent or metallic finish that can be a stylish option for dressier occasions.”

Sunglasses continue to be oversized for a bold statement which says ‘I’m fabulous!’ “Look for plastic frames that feature graduated color and embellishment at the temples,” suggested Andrews.

You can’t go wrong this season with bangle bracelets, and don’t be afraid to wear three or four at a time. However, don’t go overboard or you’ll end up looking like Madonna 1981, and that wouldn’t be good at all.

“Avoid too many trends in one outfit; the look can be overbearing and contrived,” Andrews warned. “Look for influences of the theme and avoid literal interpretations that can look like a costume.”

Tony Engelhart

As appeared in F&A Magazine Summer 2008

Designer Discovery - William Tempest

Chances are, you have probably never heard of fashion designer William Tempest. No, he wasn’t on Bravo’s Project Runway, no, his clothing hasn’t been featured in a Vogue fashion spread and no, his clothing isn’t available in your local department store. But, the 22 year old fabric artificer has only produced two collections and has since become one of the most sought-after new designers in London.

Tempest recently took part in this years Fashion Fringe program and had his show at London Fashion Week. He was selected for this by a panel including Donatella Versace, Rouland Mouret and Lucinda Chambers (Fashion Director Vogue UK). He garnered a lot of interest in the collection - Dita Von Teese, Emma Watson and Jade Parfait have all requested pieces to wear. The designer’s first collection was featured in The Sunday Times Style, ES magazine and on Vogue.com. With the buzz surrounding Tempest, it seems world wide-wide recognition is just around the corner.

William Tempest grew up intrigued by the arts and knew he wanted to do something creative at a very young age. At first, he dabbled with thoughts of becoming an architect or interior designer. Fashion was another area of interest for artistically inclined adolescent, “I’ve always been interested in different identities and used to really enjoy dressing up when I was younger” said Tempest. “I was fascinated with how garments were made and wanted to learn how to pattern cut and construct them.”

William was raised in the rural country-side of Cheshire – not exactly a fashion Mecca. His trips into the more fashionable city of Manchester as a young lad would be the catalyst that would define his destiny, “I started to look in the department stores and designer shops. I used to enjoy it so much”, said Tempest. “I decided on a career in Fashion when I was 15, it was a natural progression, and I was always interested in art and making things.”

At age 16, Tempest decided to leave high school and enrolled on a BTEC Diploma – a vocational qualifier in the UK – to study fashion design and pattern making. At 18, he moved to London and enrolled in the London College of Fashion, but he already had a two-year head start in design, “I had already been studying fashion for two years since I was 16 so I found the first two years of university relatively easy,” said Tempest. “I think more than anything it was learning to be responsible for myself and to stand on my own two feet”

While in college, Tempest worked under famed London fashion designer Giles Deacon, “I started as an intern but, after 10 weeks I was offered a position as a pattern cutter,” said Tempest. “I think the most valuable thing I learnt is seeing how the business operates and the timing of how it fits together.”

Tempest’s graduate collection was inspired by 1940’s film noir which made a bold statement at “Graduate Fashion Week”, “I was inspired by the drama and glamour of the story lines and the way some scenes are shot with such harsh lightning,” said Tempest. “My graduate collection is where I learnt the most. Mostly learning that making a collection requires so many people to perform well and on time to enable you to reach your deadlines, its things like fabric suppliers, deliveries being made on time, sample machinists etc…” The collection was also selected to be shown at “The Royal Academy of the Arts” and got tons of media attention from the likes of vogue.com, Harpers Bazaar and the BCC London News. It was also shown on stage during the Bryan Ferry performance at the “Concert for Diana” at Wembley Stadium.

Upon graduation, Tempest moved to Paris to work under Jean Charles de Castelbajac. While at Castelbajac he was given a project to design boxing robes and a sports outfit for Madonna which was used in a photo shoot to promote her latest album, “I was working none stop on the project and was constantly between London and Paris each day,” said Tempest. “The most important thing I learnt from jean Charles is to go with what you feel, regardless of any one else opinion, and don't compromise on anything.”

In January 2008, Tempest returned to London to create his own label. He is currently designing and producing his collection for S/S 09. The collection will be shown at 'London Fashion Week' this September, “My initial inspiration was from the great age of travel and I visited Mauritius where I took photographs, some under water, to inspire prints and colors,” said Tempest. “There is a lot of art deco influence in the collection in terms of silhouette and style lines. Look for streamline, razor-sharp and beautifully cut evening-wear.” The clothing is said to be ready-to-wear with a couture edge.

Currently, Tempest’s clothing is produced on a special order basis and the prices reflect the attention to detail which run upwards of $4000.00. The garments from his last collection are made to order and are sold through www.ninaandlola.com - a London based online store.

William Tempest is well on his way to becoming a global success. His clothing is modern, fun and impeccably made. All I can say is watch this designer.

Tony Engelhart

As appeared in Icongrahy Magazine Spring 2009

For Your Eyes Only

Sunglasses do much more than protect your eyes from the sun; they make a statement about who you are. This season aviator sunglasses have made a comeback. Nevertheless don’t limit yourself to the standard Ray Ban style; there are plenty more choices that are comparably priced that make a much bolder statement.

For the budget conscious, Armani Exchange offers stylish aviators in shiny black or soft beige which feature gradient lenses with the A/X logo. Price $70

Giorgio Armani offers aviators in lightweight metal frames with plastic at the temples and logo accents. With 100% UV protection, they come in your choice of dark Havana green or dark ruthenium black. Price $295

Gucci aviators are unisex and come in lightweight silvertone metal with contrasting brow bar. Your choice of antique gold Havana brown or ruthenium black-dark grey, they feature tinted lenses and logo accents. Price $320

David Yurman show off an array of aviator sunglasses in their Phantom Collection. In gold, gunmetal or black, each pair features the Rubberon David Yurman cable and custom ZEISS lenses. Gold frames feature 20k gold electroplating while the black feature onyx PVD. Priced from $495 to $595

Dior Homme sunglasses demonstrate quality craftsmanship and attention to detail in every pair. These lightweight metal glasses come in stylish black or warm brown and feature a sculpted plastic temple and tinted lenses. Price is $285

Tom Ford began his company designing eyewear. His take on aviators comes in three styles; The John is a double bar oval shape whereas The Charles is closer to the original style. In black or brown, they offer 100% UVA protection and logo accents. Price $320 – The Cyrille are classic aviator, but feature a resin frame, goldtone temples and gradient brown lenses. Price $430

Dolce and Gabbana have always been a bit more daring and their take on aviator sunglasses is no exception as they offer three bold styles. With no brow bar, the first pair comes in black or the daring combination of gold and black with smoke lenses. Price $365 – Their 70’s retro style feature double metal frames, engraved logo plate and flex hinges. Price $380 – The Clip-detail aviators feature a sporty metal clip detail, acetate temples and block logo. Price $160

Ermenegildo Zenga aviators come in elegant gold metal with zebrano wood at the temple and gradient brow bar. With logo accents, they are as stylish as they are comfortable. Price $420

As will appear in Kasanova Magazine May 2009

Tony Engelhart

Spring (Fashion) Forward

I have always been a firm believer in making a statement with my wardrobe. Even during my time in the corporate world, I would go against the grain and dandy up my drab Brooks Brothers suits with bold ties and colorful socks. Now that I am liberated from a stuffy dress code, I have the freedom to be breezy with fashion and experiment with my look.

Spring has sprung and it’s time to put your wools in hibernation for the next 4 months. While you don’t need to give everything from last season to charity, a good majority of it has to go if you want to stay current. You can hang onto your basic cotton and linen blazers from last year as they are a staple for spring/summer and are always good to throw and go for your weekend excursions, but you’re going to want to add some new ones in the latest cuts and colors for a fresh look. Flat front slacks are still preferred over pleats, but we’re seeing the return of the cuff in many collections. Strictly for the bold, blazers paired with shorts is a spicy trend for the warm days ahead.

Here are my picks for the season from three distinctly different designers. The one thing they have in common is a distinct look.

When it comes to weekend wear, look no further than Michael Bastian for your casual needs. Bastian, a recent nominee for the 2009 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year, has redefined American sportswear much in the way Ralph Lauren did back in the day and his latest collection is American with a European twist. Taking inspiration from the 1976 film The Lifeguard, the new line from the New York designer is chock full of shorts, cutoffs and swimwear bottoms in an array of colors. Paired with cotton blazers, shirts and sweaters, the look is retro with a modern twist. For the office, Bastian offers lightweight suits, blazers and trousers in neutral colors. Worn with a striped shirt and skinny tie, this look is casual Friday which is appropriate for everyday. For evening you will find swanky tailored suits and shawl collared sports coats paired with tuxedo shirts and neatly tied bowties.

When it comes to classic style with an edge, Ermenegildo Zegna has lead the way in men’s wear since 1910. The Italian fashion house produces their garments with impeccable attention to detail. For Spring the Zegna house is offering their signature two-button suits in 15MILMIL silk blended with 15 micron wool, 600 silk with trofeo wool, poplin weave and silk blended with cotton, cashmere or linen. While earth tones are the predominate palette, you will find sophisticated black and crisp white through out the collection. They also bring back the double-breast, the mandarin collar and peak lapels sparingly, but effectively. Sportswear doesn’t have to be casual and at Ermenegildo Zegna they design tailored pieces in linen, cotton, silk, seersucker and leather. If you don’t want to buy off the rack, the tailors at Zegna will custom tailor your suits, sports jackets, pants, shirts, and ties using their established artisan method. Made to order clothing can be delivered within a few weeks of your fitting and is well worth the short wait.

Best known for his work as creative director for both Gucci and Yves Saint-Laurent, Tom Ford put the glamour back into women’s high fashion. After parting ways with both houses, Ford opened his own house and began designing accessories. He has now turned his attention to menswear which is designed with just as much extravagates as his work in women’s couture. For spring 2009, Ford shows us classic Tom and while the clothing is not made for the reserved man, it is extremely suitable for those wanting to be overtly conspicuous. It’s not the fact that the vibrant colors haven’t been used in menswear before; rather it’s the placement of color which makes a daring declaration as Ford pairs a crisp white blazer with both ruby red and rose pink trousers. Suits are featured in solid red, tan and bold plaids with trousers cut so they fall just above the ankle. All jackets feature very wide peak lapels in silk, wool and cashmere. While other designers are going skinny, Ford’s neckwear is wide, I mean really wide. Paired with hand tailored mini-check shirts, these plaid ties are loud and proud.

There are many choices for spring and hopefully one of these three designers will "suit" your personal style; pun intended.

As will appear in Kasanova Magazine May 2009

Tony Engelhart

Trendspotting - Fall Trends 2008

It might be smack dab in the middle of winter, but it’s not too late to do some updating to your cold weather wardrobe. If you have the basics covered, there are several ways to modernize your look by way of adding some of the hottest new prints to your existing frigidity staples. Though some of these prints are nothing groundbreaking, they are patterns that are typically found during Spring and Summer which makes them surprisingly fresh for the winter.
For those women who want to explore their wild side, animal prints are an extremely bold statement for winter. Leopard, Jaguar, Cheetah and Zebra were all over the runways leading up to the season. From knee-high boots, ankle-length dresses, faux fur coats and parkas, it is perfectly acceptable to go head-to-toe in animal prints. However, for those women who tend to dress conservatively, but want to add a bit of adventure to their unadventurous closet, it is easy to incorporate this trend by way of animal print shoes, belts, handbags and scarves. “Animal prints typically go in and out of style rapidly. You usually see an influx in designers using them every few years for a few seasons,” said Shannon Hunter, lead designer at House of High Maintenance in Seattle, WA. “It speaks to our rebelliousness as a society to be different but can also be worn conservatively. Animal prints are certainly not your average, every day common pattern. It's fun and flirty and can be used in a wide variety of ways.”
Floral prints, while usually associated with warmer months, are making their way into the colder month ahead. Though, don’t expect to find these in pastels. The floral prints for the season are in deeper shades of red, purple and burgundy. In textured fabrics such as heavy cotton, merino wool, and weighty silk, these floral printed pieces are a way to bring some much needed color to the grey days of winter.
Plaid is back and it’s no big surprise; it seems this age-old pattern have been a staple for winter forever. Yet, the Scottish inspired print can make just as bold of a statement as a red dress at a funeral. This season, rather than traditional red and black, plaids are being featured in muted tones of grey, blue, green and brown. The trick to wearing plaid is to not wear more than one piece at a time. If you wear a plaid jacket, for God sake, don’t wear a plaid skirt. The look will be too overbearing.
Now that the leaves have fallen and winter is upon us, all of the usual fabric suspects have made a return. Wool, cashmere, fleece and mohair are all meant to shield us from the cold while providing a luxurious look. But this season there are more choices in which we can stay warm while looking fierce.
Despite the animal rights movement, fur is back and back in a big way. Whether it’s a full length mink coat or a cropped sable jacket, fur pieces made their way down nearly every catwalk leading up to the fall/winter season. Fur trimmed collars, cuffs or other embellishments on accessories such as gloves are ways to wear fur in a more subtle fashion.
If you don’t want to risk having red paint thrown on your fur coat, but still like the look of fur, it is perfectly acceptable to wear faux fur. Not only is it a lot less costly, it feels and looks authentic, “Faux Fur is very popular for the socially-conscious and fashion has taken a turn towards trying to be as green as possible the past few seasons,” said Hunter. “It is humane in that it is synthetic so no animals are harmed for their coats. Faux Fur also has a wide range of abilities to be dyed and patterned in ways that is more complicated using real fur.”
Leather is yet another material that has PETA up in arms, but it seems this is one textile that has a reoccurring life. Leather shoes, bags, jackets and accessories are, and always will be, a staple in a woman’s wardrobe. This season we are seeing waxy leather and tile-pattern leather which is a bit trendy, but a fun way to update your look without breaking the bank. There is no need to stick with black or brown as jewel tones and metallic are a hot alternative. Nubuck and suede are another way to wear leather for a more organic look. For the more eco-friendly woman, faux leather has come a long way and actually gives her more options. Croc and snake skin are much more affordable in faux fashion and looks and feels like the real deal.
While tweed is generally associated with menswear, designers have incorporated into their women’s collections for winter. Although it is a warm fabric, it can be a bit stuffy if not worn properly. Tweed is best in small doses and one should never wear more than one piece at a time. Pair a tweed jacket with a plain pencil skirt or even a pair of jeans for a rustically chic appearance.

As appeared in Vestiture Magazine Fall 2007

Tony Engelhart

Economics of Color

There is no denying that the economy is in a downward spiral and it may take years for it to recover despite President Barack Obama’s best efforts. With the Dow fluctuating on a daily basis, it’s no wonder that retail shops are empty; people are severely cutting back on luxury purchases, including apparel. One need only look at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week back in the fall of 2008 as proof that designers are aware of this trend: Vera Wang went without a tent and Calvin Klein scrapped his infamous after party. As we approach Spring, we will begin to see color as more important than design.

“The economy certainly does influence color, though I think in a different way than past years,” said designer and owner of Salvationware in Seattle, WA, Jmi. “This time around, when Spring 09 was in the works, designers were trying to offer some kind of glimmer of hope and cheeriness for the future - a renewal for Spring. I am not sure however, that they anticipated things being as bad as we're approaching the actual season itself.” Jmi sees this is making a big impact on whether or not consumers will continue buying trendy colors and designs and believes they will begin sticking with more what is necessary and lasting.

While earth tones are creeping back by way of muted browns, plum, orange and yellow one of this season’s hottest trends is the return of extremely loud color, “One bright color that pops, worn with white or black, seems to be a big trend for spring. Think 80's: bright yellow, pink or blue, even some fluorescent colors,” said Jmi. “I honestly didn't imagine them returning.”

Another trend we are seeing is a return of plaids and florals – sometimes being mixed together for some unique and daring combinations. “All of the outfits seem to have one eye-catching twist- sometimes it is the color used, but I see it also with the sheen of the fabric, or a metallic luster,” said Jmi.

Save your black linen jackets and silk skirts from last season as black still seems to be a staple for this Spring. Neutrals seem more predominant than usual- especially a nude, tan or beige.
Two other color trends which are making a statement are polar opposites. The Casual color trend serves the metropolitan woman as concrete city colors are showing up in glassy blues and unnatural pinks. The Classic color trend suits the suburban women with shades of coral blue and sandy reds.

Michelle Obama's influence on fashion is refreshing as she is showing how to be classy and chic without spending a million bucks to do so. “Women will take note of that, and thrift will supersede trend, but they can stay stylish and contemporary nonetheless, by keeping an eye on what is current, though perhaps just dipping a toe in the water, rather than jumping in head first!” said Jmi. “Michelle Obama's head to toe lemongrass for example, will probably not be something you really see on the street, but it was highly appropriate for both the occasion, and her style!” A more universal example of that trend for the casual wearer might be a pretty blouse, or even a cute hat, paired with more neutral colors for the rest of the outfit.

For those consumers hit by the recession, it is recommended to simply buy the more trendy colored accessories from "fast fashion" retailers, since it is not such an investment. Meanwhile shoppers should buy a nicer staple piece from the department or specialty store to pair with your existing Spring wardrobe.

As the economy improves, styles will again become more dramatic for all you fashionista’s. But for now, ride out the storm, hold onto your hat and spend your fashion dollars wisely.

As appeared in Vestiture Magazine Spring 2009

Tony Engelhart

Dress Your Age

You might have a smoking hot body, and you might not need Botox, but if you’re not twenty-something anymore, please don’t try and dress like you are. I know it’s a difficult realization but, if you are over the age of 35, it is probably time to start rethinking what is in your wardrobe. But before you throw everything in your closet out, allow me to guide you through the no-no’s and yes-yes’s of dressing your age.
You’ve seen her – we’ve all seen her – the 40-something-year-old woman who dresses like Lindsay and Britney. As she struts around in her low-rise jeans, spiked heels and midriff tank, she draws attention to herself, but it’s not the kind of positive interest she thinks she’s getting. Rather, the gawks and stares she gets are those of “I can’t believe she’s wearing that.” The reason for the negative reaction to her outfit is that she is not dressed age-appropriately and is in desperate need of a style intervention – not to mention a wake-up call that she can’t pull off dressing like a teen idol anymore.
The first thing a woman needs to do when she reaches her mid-30s is to identify her own personal style and build on it. While it isn’t necessary to go ultra-conservative, the days of showing too much skin are over. When choosing jeans, stick with a mid-rise and avoid trendy washes. Skirts should be worn above the knee and tops should not be worn with the girls or the belly exposed – although a backless halter is acceptable. Tight-fitting garments expose flaws, but even if you have no apparent imperfections, fits should be tailored for a sophisticated look.
When shopping for a new wardrobe, choose classic pieces. Example: The pencil skirt is a must-have for any professional woman over 35. Cut close to the hip with two slits – front and back or sides – this skirt falls just above the knee and can be worn with a tailored jacket or a simple blouse.
Staying current doesn’t mean you have to be trendy and is easily achievable with accessories. If you want to add some funky details to your wardrobe, choose bracelets, necklaces and earrings with some character. Currently, chunky jewelry is all the rage. Usually made of plastic, this jewelry an affordable way to give your new look some pop. Belts worn at the waist are a great way to enhance your figure at any age and are another affordable accessory you will get a lot of mileage out of.
You need not give up your sex appeal just because you aren’t wearing skin-tight clothing anymore. Choose pieces that enhance your best features. If you have great legs, show them with a skirt that is slit on the sides. If you have a nice chest, showing a “little” cleavage is totally acceptable – just be sure you have a supportive bra. Well-fitting clothes are what make a woman sexy, so avoid baggy or loose-fitting garments.
Shoes are the most important accessory in your wardrobe and should be chosen with as much forethought as your clothing. First and foremost, avoid shopping in the juniors department. Choose classic pumps with a pointed or open toe – square or round toes tend to look unadventurous. Don’t be afraid of color. While a black pair is versatile, a red pair makes a statement. Heels should not be over two to three inches unless you’re a stripper.
If you’re 50-plus, the rules change, but not a whole lot, so don’t ship your entire wardrobe off to the Goodwill quite yet. It has been said that 50 is the new 30, and while that might be true, the fact is, at 50 you’re probably a grandmother and not a new mommy. The level of sophistication of your clothing needs to reflect your new status of a mature woman. Stay with tailored clothing but minimize the amount of accessories. Avoid light-washed jeans and t-shirts. Skirts should fall below the knee and tops should not show any cleavage.
According to a new book by Cindi Leive, Glamour Do’s and Don’ts, confidence is everything. When in doubt, trust your gut instinct. If you don’t feel comfortable in an outfit, your unease will show.

As appeared in Vestiture Magazine Fall 2008

Tony Engelhart