The Style Guy

Style Returns To the White House

2011-05-09T13:38:00.000-07:00

Not since the Kennedy’s occupied the White House have fashion and politics merged once the Obama’s came to Washington. John F. Kennedy had a young, hip yet conservative style as he fancied pin stripe tailored suits from Brooks Brothers. When vacationing, he could often be spotted in khaki slacks, a basic white cotton button and those iconic Ray Ban Wayfarer sunglasses. Jackie Kennedy was the most elegant first lady in history up until the early 1960s and her status as such remained untouched for decades. Wearing designer gowns by Oleg Cassini, she was the embodiment of style and sophistication. Her trendsetting pillbox hat was designed by Halston while her jackets were Chanel inspired. In April of 2001, the Metropolitan Museum featured the ultimate first lady of style’s most famous outfits in an exhibit called Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years.

The Obama’s parallel the Kennedy’s in many ways. Not only are they are both Democrats and both brought small children into the White House, but there is an aura of elegance which surrounds the couple. President Barack Obama doesn’t just walk into a room; rather, he swaggers in with an unapologetic confidence. First Lady, Michelle Obama has a style that is uniquely her own and appears comfortable in her role.

Barack Obama is untouchably the sharpest dressed President the United States has ever had in the both the 20th and 21st centuries. Unlike Carter, Regan, HW Bush, Clinton or GW, he rocks the two piece suit with an undeniable coolness. Maybe it is because he prefers slim cut suits from legendary clothier, Burberry. While still Senator Obama and candidate Obama, he purchased his suits “off the rack”, but after he wrapped up the nomination he wore a custom made $1500 Hartmarx suit in navy blue made of 97% merino wool and 3% cashmere to the acceptance speech. Still not ready to embrace flat front slacks, his pants were pleated and cuffed – hey, he had to appeal to conservatives as well as liberals. The President also shops at Barneys of NY.
Attention to detail is important to the President and his wrist watch is evidence of this. No, it’s not a $20,000 Rolex or even a Movado, but rather it is a classic Jorg Gray known as the Series 6500 chronograph which is a sophisticated, but not flashy choice. As for ties, Obama sticks with classic solids and the occasional diagonal stripe for that “presidential” look. Like JFK, his choice in sunglasses is Ray Ban.

Now let’s talk about the latest style icon, Mrs. Barack Obama. From the get go, Michelle has been the most glamorous First Lady since Jackie O. Starting at the inauguration ceremony, she wore a stunning canary yellow dress and jacket by designer Isabel Toledo. Hours after the ceremony, The Dress barn and Bluefly.com were flooded with calls from women wanting a similar look for less. Since then, she has proven her style to be chic and sophisticated, but has never been pretentious. Rather than wearing established designer’s clothing, she leans towards up and coming designers such as Wu, Toledo, Narciso Rodriguez and Thakoon Panichgul which is ushering a new crop of talented clothing designers and giving them a platform from which they can establish themselves. For casual wear, often her choices are from the very affordable J. Crew.

In January of 2011, she made headlines when she wore a flaming red dress by Alexander McQueen to greet the People Republic of China. While she was criticized by legendary designer Oscar de la Renta for wearing a European designer’s gown while trying to encourage trade relations between the US and China, she still looked breathtaking. Besides, she wouldn’t wear Oscar anyway.
At the State of the Union address on January 25th, she redeemed herself by wearing a putty colored sheath dress by American designer by Rachel Roy. Her black and white ribbon was to honor the recent shooting victim Representative Gabrielle Giffords.

As appeared in Icongraphy the Magazine Spring 2011

Fabrics

2010-12-22T14:36:00.000-08:00

Even though a suit made of manmade materials might cost less, don’t make this mistake – trust me, I’ve done it. Fibers such as Viscose, rayon and polyester do not breathe as well as natural fibers. Besides, these fibers break down and end up looking worn and cheap.

When choosing a suit, you should stick with wool. There are many reasons for picking wool. Wool is water resistant, it is moisture wicking, is a fantastic insulator, it regulates temperature, is breathable and it blends well with other fabrics.

Wool comes in many weights.

For Spring/Summer, choose tropical wool.
Tropical weight wool is two-ply, plain weave worsted wool which is sturdy yet lightweight. Often referred to as summer wool, it is used for the production warm weather suits.

For the colder month, choose worsted wool.
Worsted wool is manufactured in Worsted, England and has been since the 18th century. The wool fibers are spun into compact and smoothly twisted yarn prior to weaving. Worsted wool goes through a second process in which unwanted shorter fibers are removed causing the longer fibers to lay flat. Besides being breathable, worsted wool is wrinkle and crease resistant thus is a great choice when purchasing a suit.
Now you must decide which grade of wool you want in a suit, Super 100's, Super 110's, Super 120's, or Super 150's. The differences are measured by fiber microns. An example would be Super 100 wool contains fibers which are finer than 18 microns, whereas Super 150 contains fibers which are finer than 15 microns. In laymen’s terms, the higher the number, the softer the fabric is. In fact, Super wool 150 is finer than cashmere. Personally, I like wools between 120 and 150.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Pant Cuffs

2010-12-22T14:34:00.001-08:00

Stylish men face a critical choice when purchasing slacks; to cuff or not to cuff. Cuffing or not cuffing slacks comes down to personal choice and there is no right or wrong answer. While the current trend is flat front slacks without cuffs, some men still prefer pleated slacks with cuffs. Cuffs look best on tall men, while shorter men will appear taller without cuffs. Slacks which are made of heavier material such as flannel look best if cuffed because they add weight. Cuffs are not necessary with flat front slacks, but add to the overall aesthetic to pleated slacks. Pants with cuffs are considered to be dressier while pants without cuffs are considered to be more European and fashion forward. The proper width of a cuff should only be 1 ¼ inch – no more, no less.

Cuffs will always be in style no matter what the fashion rags say. They have a rich heritage dating back to King Edward the VII in the 1890s and crossed the Atlantic in the early 20th century to become the standard in stylish menswear. Cuff or no cuff; it is really up to you.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Choosing a Tie

2010-12-22T11:19:00.000-08:00

In the business world a tie is a must because it’s an indication of trust, but choosing the right one can be a challenge for some men. The tie says more about your personal style as well as your personality than anything else in your wardrobe.

The first rule of thumb when picking a tie, always choose silk or wool, no polyester. While there are many patterns to choose from, some should be avoided no matter if your wife thinks it’s cute or not. Novelty ties, such as Christmas or cartoon ties, are a no-no, even at the company’s party. Stick will diagonal stripes, subtle paisley, dots, repp stripes or solid patterns. Solids are striking especially when made of high quality woven silk. A solid tie is black, navy, burgundy or gray with a crisp white dress shirt demands respect.

The width of a tie is just as important as the pattern you choose. The standard width of a tie is around 3 inches. However, slim ties measuring 2 inches are back in vogue as are wider ties measuring 4 inches. Anything skinnier or wider is not recommended.

Matching a tie with a shirt and suit is not as tricky as it might sound. Blue suits are most versatile as you can wear almost every tie and shirt combination. Examples would be blue and yellow or burgundy and blue. Another striking color combination is monochrome. Black on black and grey on grey are two great examples.
Tying a tie properly is a must. There are four basic knots.
• The Four in Hand knot is an asymmetrical knot which is best for button down shirts.
• The Pratt knot is fairly wide and is suited for most dress shirts.
• The Half Windsor is a symmetrical knot that can go with any shirt collar.
• The Windsor knot is wide and triangular knot which is a great option for the spread collar shirt.

Depending on the weight of the tie and the collar of your shirt, every man should master all four.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Accessories

2010-12-22T11:14:00.000-08:00

Every well dressed man should know how to accessorize without looking like a cast member of “Goodfellas” – no pinky rings please. The first thing you should know about accessories is less is better. The accessory you choose should enhance your style, not retract from it, and so choose wisely.

Accessories are items you wear for two purposes. First, utility such as a belt or a watch and two, to enhance your style such as a ring or a bracelet. With so many ways to accessorize your wardrobe, let’s stick with the basics – accessories 101 if you will.

Belts are optional these days. If your trousers fit, it is perfectly acceptable to go beltless. However, if you want or need to wear a belt make sure it matches your shoes. Black belt – black shoes, brown belt – brown shoes.

Cufflinks are a choice, not a necessity unless you only wear French cuff shirts. When choosing cufflinks, don’t be too “blingy” and novelty cufflinks are just plain tacky. Stick with simple designs that are eye catching, but not flashy. Cufflinks with inlays, such as wood, are always a tasteful choice.

Pocket Squares are another accessory that are optional, but will make your suit or sports jacket pop. While you can buy matching ties and pocket squares, try mixing it up. A clean white cotton or a silk plaid pocket square makes a bigger statement than if you are too “matchy”. There are several ways to fold a pocket square, just make sure the tag isn’t showing.

Braces or suspenders are making a comeback. If braces still seem too dated for your taste and always remind you of Gordon Gecko from the 1980s classic “Wall Street”, than you might want to think twice about investing in them. Still, if you want to wear them, don’t wear the clip on type. Invest some money and have brace buttons sewn into your slacks.

The tie bar is back and is arguably a utility accessory. When choosing a tie bar, stick with a simple silver and make sure the bar is not too big or too small for the tie. Same rules as cufflinks apply: nothing too “blingy” and nothing with a theme.

The manbag is big these days and I don’t just mean in size. That’s right, a shoulder bag has all but replaced those stuffy brief cases. This is definitely a utility accessory because you can carry everything from a laptop to a fresh shirt in them. These should always be made of leather, not pleather.

The scarf can be either a utility or a fashion accessory. On the one hand, it is made to keep you warm. On the other hand, it is very European looking. When choosing a scarf, be bold and select a pattern such as plaid and no acrylic. A scarf should be made of wool, no exceptions.

Socks are not often thought of as an accessory, but they are. Whether argyle or fun color combinations, patterned socks can make even the drabbest wingtips come to life. Match your socks to shirt for an understated detail that will surely be noticed.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Buying a Dress Shirt

2010-12-22T11:02:00.000-08:00

Choosing the right dress shirt makes an important statement about your wardrobe. The type of shirt you pick will define your personal style and determine your status.

First and foremost, choose 100 percent cotton. The reasons behind this are, cotton breathes and looks crisp. While polyester and cotton blended shirts are wash and wear, the fibers tend to break down quicker leaving pilling in its wake. Besides, they look cheap. Ply count is another important option to consider. The higher the ply count, the softer the cotton will be. The weave of the fabric is just as important as the ply count. Oxford cotton last for a long time and have a basket weave which that is extremely soft. Broadcloth is a tightly woven cotton fabric with a silky feel. Poplin cotton, my personal favorite, is woven with a horizontal rib effect and is heavier which makes it great for colder months while Twill cotton has a diagonal weave which is light and great for the warmer months.

The type of collar you choose will say more about your personal style than anything else in your closet. Straight point collars have a V-shape and are the most common collars in menswear and are best for a small knotted tie. For more casual look, the button down collar is a great option because they can be worn with or without a tie and still be perfectly acceptable. The spread collar is reserved for professional men who like the full Windsor know – think Donald Trump. Less common, but equally as stylish are the tab collar, the club collar and the pinned collar.

Sleeve length is very important. Too long looks sloppy and too short looks ridiculous. Sleeves should rest at the end of your wrist. To ensure this affect, choose shirts that are exactly as long as your arm.

Cuffs come is three styles and each are acceptable in menswear. Barrel cuffs are most common because they do not require any accessories. Currently, vertical double buttons are considered stylish, but one button is standard in most shirts. The French cuffs are considered to be more formal than barrel cuffs as they require cufflinks. This is a great option for a job interview or an evening out. Convertible cuffs are more versatile for the can be buttoned or use cufflinks.
Pockets are yet another consideration when choosing a dress shirt. The one pocket is most common and can be used to hold items such as pens. Two pocket shirts are less formal and should not require a tie. No pocket dress shirts are a bit more fashion forward, but are an elegant choice for the style conscious man.

The fit of a dress shirt is, again, a matter of personal style. Regular fitted shirts are a bit looser and allow for ease of movement. Trim fit, or athletic fit, is cut so the shirt hugs your torso. Full fitted dress shirts are cut for men of a larger stature and are generally longer.

Solid color shirts are most versatile because they can be matched with bold ties and pattern suits and sport jackets. Prints are fine, but you must pick a tie that does not clash or steal the spotlight. While pattern mixing has become acceptable, if you are unsure, choose a solid tie to go with a printed shirt.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Buying a Suit

2010-12-22T10:56:00.000-08:00

If you find yourself in the suit section of a department store and find yourself completely overwhelmed, don’t worry, you’re not alone. With so many choices, the undertaking of purchasing a suit can be a daunting task. But rather than having the salesperson dictate your choice, be armed and ready with the knowledge you’ll need to make this acquisition.

Buying a suit is an investment, if for no other reason, the price. A quality suit will generally run you $350 to $500, so make sure you know what you want. The first thing you will need to decide is what type of suit you want. There are many choices, but the most common are the one button, the two button, the three button and the double breasted. Currently the two button is enjoying a comeback after years of three button popularity. This is not say you shouldn’t consider the three button, but the trend is definitely the two button suit with flat front slacks. The double breasted seems to be making a comeback, but slowly – very slowly and the one button is reserved for the fashion forward.

Know your size: Either measure yourself or have yourself measured before investing in a suit. There is nothing more frumpy looking than wearing a suit that is even one size too big and there is nothing more uncomfortable than wearing a suit that is too small. The shoulders should fit at the natural shoulder, the buttons shouldn’t be too high or too low, the jacket should be the same length as your arms and the cuffs of the jacket should hit at the hinge of your wrists. The slacks should rest on your hip – not your belly and should hit the top on your shoes, although some men prefer a slight break which is a perfectly acceptable option too. A fitted suit can empower you and make you feel more confident.

Details, details, details: Decide on what vents you want. If you are conservative, stick with the center vent. If you are a bit more daring, go for side vents. The notch lapel is most common, however, the peak lapel on a single breasted suit makes an elegant statement.

To cuff or not to cuff the slacks, that is the question. This really comes down to personal choice and there is no right or wrong answer.

For first time suit buyers I recommend a solid navy for the simple reason, navy is extremely versatile. You can wear the jacket with grey, tan or khaki slacks and vs. versa for the slacks. Besides being interchangeable, navy goes with almost every shirt and tie combo – except black of course.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Gender Bending | A Brief History of Unisex Fashion

2010-12-08T15:48:00.000-08:00

Androgynous fashion lines have been crossing for decades and while we will probably never see a man going to the office in a floral skirt, we have seen even the manliest man arrive in a floral print shirt or tie. But if history has taught us anything, nothing is out of the realm of possibility.

While the trend wasn’t predominant in the 1990s, it slowly crept back into vogue with the new millennium and this season is no exception. “The strongest and most versatile application of androgyny in fashion still lies in the suit or suit separates,” said Palacios, independent fashion stylist in Seattle, WA. Burberry, Marni, and Gucci showed strong unisex tuxedos and suits on the catwalks for Fall 2009. Comme des Garcons, Dior, and Armand Basi One use strong leather bomber jackets, billowy drop crotch pants, and oversized garments cinched with a polished belt to create the look. Helmut Lang has shown us great application of the t-silhouette with blazers and waistcoats having exaggerated shoulders in both height and width.

Unisex fashion or androgyny [in Greek ‘andr’ referring to man, and ‘gyn’ referring to woman] is simply a merging of both feminine and masculine characteristics. Neither men dressing like women, women dressing like men, but rather both at once; a blending of what may be commonly known as menswear and women’s wear.

Fashion changed dramatically during the 1920s and carried over into the 190s. Women felt more liberated in the 20s and began to experiment with their wardrobe as women began to alter men’s for a more unisex look. “Katharine Hepburn was frequently photographed during the 30’s in pants and oxfords while Marlene Dietrich ushered in unisex with her suits, ties, and bowties,” said Palacios. French fashion designer, Coco Chanel, introduced the Chanel suit in 1923 which featured a knee high skirt and boxy wool-woven jacket with gold buttons and black trim. The look suit look was slightly androgynous, but retained a strong sense of femininity. In reality, the modern woman was born during this decade and the styles from this period have never completely been discarded.

With the Great Depression, fashion once again changed in the 1940s and the boyish flapper girl look gave way to a softer silhouette and a more glamorous overall look. However, The 40’s and World War II had women wearing their husband's pants while working in the yard and amidst leisurely activities.

While the next decade didn’t start out atypically from the previous one, by the end of it, it was difficult to distinguish the boys from the girls. In the mid-1950s rock and roll was born and fashion would never be the same. Elvis Presley, Little Richard and Jerry Lee Lewis all had a slightly androgynous appeal which teens aspired to. The one-time worker jean, Levi, became a fashion staple for both sexes’ thanks in part to movie icons Marlin Brando and James Dean. The Beatniks were kids were pseudo-intellectuals with a affinity for jazz, art, poetry and an anti-materialistic lifestyle. The look was extremely androgynous. More often than not, they had a uniform; black turtleneck, black skinny trousers and sometimes a beret covered their cropped hair. The beat generation had one of the most profound effects on the fashion world as it was their influence which shaped the Beatles’ look and, as we all know, their affect influenced a generation.

Those swinging 1960’s when all the rules went out the door a new generation was dictating trends that were once set by the fashion designer. “Up until the 60s, designers generally produced articles that fell in line with gender roles; women wore skirts and men wore suits. The niceties of the previous eras were coming to an abrupt end as baby boomers pushed social norms,” said Palacios. “Models like Twiggy began wearing boyish haircuts while men participating in the hippie idealization grew their hair past their shoulders.” Rock stars were seen in feather boas, embroidered jackets, beaded necklaces, vibrant colors and hip-hugging jeans. Designers were quick to jump on this trend and began producing lines for men and women that were androgynous hippie influenced.

The following decade, we saw even more gender bending fashion thanks to British music icons such as David Bowie and Roxy Music who spearheaded the glam movement. “While a greater America steered towards more conventional bell-bottoms and peasant tops, mainstream UK didn’t spare a second to add gold lame, glitter, and feathers to existing garments and collections,” said Palacios. “Both men and women adorned themselves in boas as headpieces and scarves, and Victorian style shirts.” While this over-the-top trend was not wide-spread, it did seep into mainstream fashion by way of platform shoes and wide-leg, flared trousers which both became a staple in both sex’s closet. These fashion essentials carried over into the Disco look of 1977. That same year, the Woody Allen classic film, Annie Hall was released. Annie (Diane Keaton) arrived on screen wearing a men’s button down shirt, vest and tie. Paired with a long skirt, this was unisex fashion at its finest as Hall successfully blended the masculine with the feminine in such a way as to not allow one element overbear the other.

In the 1980s women began to move from the secretarial pool into high-power management positions and unisex fashion once again reflected the changing mood of society. Power Dressing included elements of menswear with traditional women’s wear. Perhaps the most prominent example of this trend was the women’s power suit. With broad shoulder pads, these tailored jackets were paired with matching knee length skirts or slacks and a buttoned up to the neck blouse. There were usually accented with a broach or kerchief to give the look which was definitely feminine, but had a masculine influence. While the power suit died by the end of the decade, the basic concept of pairing a tailored jacket with a pair of trousers has remained a popular trend for office and casual wear. We also saw a shift in fashion with the introduction of MTV, “Who better than “the material girl” - Madonna - to completely shake the fashion industry; bringing a mixture of extreme femininity and also suspenders and boys shirts,” said Palacios. “Madonna and New Wave Music brought punk the forefront of fashion, art, and music.”

The art to unisex dressing is to take elements from the opposite sexes wardrobe and integrate them into a single. It’s a slippery slope, but if done correctly, this is one way to make a bold statement and set yourself apart from the masses, “A safe start is to wear a men’s suit with vest and all, then pair it with a chiffon blouse and thin belt over top. Or, pair a voluminous gown with black leggings, combat boots and a men’s t-shirt,” suggests Palacios. “Bring focus to one or two areas of differentiation – too many competing layers can quickly become tragic.”

Androgynous fashion is liberating for it simply gives one more choices. Besides being liberating, it is also extremely fun to experiment with different combinations. And that is what fashion should be, fun.

As appeared on divisble magazine

Green is the New Black

2010-12-08T15:19:00.000-08:00

It would appear green is the new black and I am not talking about the color. Google eco fashion and you will come up with hundreds of companies who have jumped on the green bandwagon. Stores such as Banana Republic are riding the eco-friendly wave by launching a 50- piece green collection. However, while the packaging and tags are made from sustainable materials, it is unclear whether the actual clothing is. Besides, the apparel is still manufactured overseas where the labor is extremely cheap. So, the question is how “green” are they?

Salvationware in Seattle, WA not only talks the green talk, they walk it. Designer/owner Jme is dedicated to, not only using strictly organic materials, but also to manufacturing in an ethical way.

The Seattle designer was first bit by the fashion bug at a very early age, “When I was about 5 my mom was making ice skating and roller skating outfits for people. I would use the scraps for my dolls and then for myself. She taught me to use the machine and let me sew whenever I wanted. she was self taught, and taught me what she knew about sewing and fabrics,” said Jme. “By 5th grade I had a notebook where I would take orders of what I made, collect money and produce the orders for my friends. my mom taught me how to do this too. From there I knew I would have a store one day, where I would make and sell my designs, and then also market other artists' talents too.”

At age 21 Jme opened a small boutique, but after about 3 years she was so busy running the store, she didn't have time to design and make her own designs. She sold it and moved to Seattle to start school at the New York Fashion Academy in Ballard to focus on designing, and get the technical experience she lacked. Jme worked as a sample sewer for a few start-ups, but found the experience unrewarding.

Salvationware has been a serious venture for 5 years, “I knew I would no longer be working for other people, and that the only value my skills would really provide me, would be in focusing on my own work and designs...working toward making my own line successful rather than trying to "get a job",” said Jme. “It has always been my goal to have a clothing line that would focus more on what happens behind the label, than how it appears on the surface. I considered the success of such a line to be the vehicle for change - a way for me to progressively impact some causes I find important: ethics, ecology and philanthropy.”

The vision of the company is to turn vanity into philanthropy; to get people to think and care more about the impact they make in the world, than what they look like. “Sure, looking good is important - and my clothes do - but I also want people to question who made this? Where did it come from? Were people, animals or ecology exploited so that I could have this? How can I change that?” said Jme. “One person does make an impact. I think there is a shift in consciousness lately, mainly forced, based on the poor economic climate, but the resounding affect will be longer lasting and more significant, than just saving some money.” Jme believes people already know that isn't enough and when they demand that their products be green and ethical as a norm then the marketplace must supply accordingly. The designer longs for the day when "green" isn't a catch phrase, gimmick or luxury, but when it is just the way we do business.

Jme has a goal to shed light on the dirty little secret of the apparel industry and believes this can be done without sacrificing fair labor and environmentally friendly materials, “I mean how green is it to exploit the workers, even if your fabric is sustainable?? The workers certainly cannot sustain with little or no pay.” said Jme, “So basically my mission with this line is one of a message; to think about where your clothes come from.”

Jme did not start Salvationware for the money, but hopes to make an impact in other ways, “The line would be ethically made and ecologically produced, to the most utopian extent possible and the proceeds would go towards impacting charity, in a significant way. In a sense my line is entirely focused around charity - a real first for fashion.”

Using all sustainable fabrics, Jme is truly a green fashion designer, however, it is not an easy task, “It is currently very costly and pretty inconvenient to stay green. I have had to focus on this as a goal, rather than a rule. If you look at my collection of samples, most of them are not made in eco friendly fabrics but I won't be selling or manufacturing them until they are,” said Jme. “I forgo selling my designs for the sake of my standards, but you can see the intrinsic issues there - if I don't sell, how can I afford what I need?”
At this point she will not sell out her ideals for a product. It is slow going for now. She uses eco friendly fabrics when and where she can apply them; otherwise her line is mostly a sample of her vision for the entirely ecologically and ethically sound packages.

Salvationware designs are mostly inspired by uniforms, “I think from my dad's years in the navy I always liked the striking appearance of someone dressed in uniform, and so I use a lot of military type details in my clothes,” said Jme. “I am also influenced by comfort and utilitarian facets, so each of my designs is fitted very specifically, and each little thing has a function - sometimes dual use.” For example, Jme dislikes purses and handbags, so she eliminates the need for one by making cargo pockets that detach into a small satchel. While military influenced looks were predominant in her last collection, she added some truly glamorous pieces to break up the uniform themed grouping including black and white striped dresses and pants jewel tone one shoulder evening gowns and striking black mini dresses.

Jme is a true pioneer and if more designers follow the example she has set, maybe we can change the world one thread at a time.

Currently, Salvationware is only available via the website Salvationware.com.

As appeared on divisible magazine

GUESS Tribal E/W Satchel

2009-04-27T14:58:00.000-07:00

While some bags are wallflowers, others are the life of the party and this Tribal Satchel by GUESS definitely falls into the latter category.

This embossed faux snake skin purse comes in your choice of classic grey or flirty purple. The top zipper entry opens up to an interior zipper pocket which features two slide pockets and a separate cell phone compartment. Besides being extremely roomy, with double handles, silver embellishments and signature GUESS fabric lining, this bag is an instant classic that will last more than one season.

Written for Bagbunch.com

Heating Up

2009-04-23T14:11:00.000-07:00

So, here it is, the middle of summer and you still haven’t got a clue of what’s hot and what’s not. If your idea of fashion is a t-shirt, cut off Levis, black leggings and combat boots, it’s probably best if you flip the page. But if you have any interest whatsoever in this year’s fashion trends, read on.

Fashion is once again recycling, but don’t try and get away with shopping at the local thrift shop to look up-to-date. Some of this summer’s trends date back as far the 1920’s, but designers have skillfully updated them for a new take on an old look.

Safari inspired dresses, jackets and shorts are a chic choice for summer; a recycled trend for sure as it maintains the traditional details like flap pockets, epaulets and utilitarian self-belts. But what updates this trend for is color, “Look for modern interpretations in unexpected shades like white or a feminine pastel,” said Gregg Andrews, Fashion Director for Nordstrom. “A safari-inspired look is perfect for women of any age and is a sophisticated choice for warm weather career or casual dressing.”

Mismatch prints are for the woman who wants to the world she’s here and she’s daring! That’s right, just as in home décor, it is now acceptable to mix prints.

Higher waist lines are back after several seasons of waist lines that fell almost past the derriere. “This is good news for a lot of woman, because the higher waistline elongates the lower part of the body making a woman appear taller and slimmer,” says Andrews. “High waistlines are often balanced by a wider leg on a pant or a fuller skirt shape.”

Art and fashion merge as painterly prints are a huge trend for summer. From abstract brush strokes to impressionist florals, these bold prints give a fresh, modern look to simple dresses and tops, “If you're print-phobic you can still embrace your inner artist by updating your summer basics with a new printed handbag or shoe,” suggests Andrews.

Dresses continue to be a summer essential. “A great option to a traditional sun dress is the new day gown or maxi dress,” said Andrews. “The long day dress is uber-chic and has an air of casual sophistication. Worn from ankle to floor length, these simple, fluid dresses are easy to wear and look great with flat sandals.”

This season, vibrant color is a key element in ready-to-wear and colors called Acid Bright are being worn in combinations for a bold statement. If you’re not quite ready to stand out like a neon sign, take baby steps with a colorful shoe or handbag.

Retro is one trend that continually pops its head up and this year is no exception. “Designers were inspired this season by styles from past decades and the trends we are seeing today have influences from the 1970's and 80's. Many designers are fashion historians and they reinterpret iconic looks from the past,” said Andrews. “These new collections are designed with a modern sensibility, they're not just a retro re-do.”

For those women who aren’t afraid of standing out, hot items from yesteryear this season include: The 1920’s Jazz-age flapper inspired trend. This style puts fun and glamour back into ready-to-wear. Underwear as outerwear was introduced in the 1930’s and made a huge comeback six decades later. Camisoles and robe-like coats and jackets are continuing to be an important element of style in 2008. Shoulder pads were huge in the 1980’s and are making a subtle comeback this year. This time, they are less boxy and being done with short sleeves unlike the power suits worn by Leona Helmsley back in the day.

Shoes, shoes, shoes; an easy way to update an older outfit or give a punch to a new one. One of Andrews’ picks for summer are the wedged heels, “We are seeing casual, chunky retro looks with heels covered in natural materials like cork, straw or wood,” said Andrews. “For a sleeker urban look the wedge can have a patent or metallic finish that can be a stylish option for dressier occasions.”

Sunglasses continue to be oversized for a bold statement which says ‘I’m fabulous!’ “Look for plastic frames that feature graduated color and embellishment at the temples,” suggested Andrews.

You can’t go wrong this season with bangle bracelets, and don’t be afraid to wear three or four at a time. However, don’t go overboard or you’ll end up looking like Madonna 1981, and that wouldn’t be good at all.

“Avoid too many trends in one outfit; the look can be overbearing and contrived,” Andrews warned. “Look for influences of the theme and avoid literal interpretations that can look like a costume.”

Tony Engelhart

As appeared in F&A Magazine Summer 2008

Designer Discovery - William Tempest

2009-04-23T12:27:00.000-07:00

Chances are, you have probably never heard of fashion designer William Tempest. No, he wasn’t on Bravo’s Project Runway, no, his clothing hasn’t been featured in a Vogue fashion spread and no, his clothing isn’t available in your local department store. But, the 22 year old fabric artificer has only produced two collections and has since become one of the most sought-after new designers in London.

Tempest recently took part in this years Fashion Fringe program and had his show at London Fashion Week. He was selected for this by a panel including Donatella Versace, Rouland Mouret and Lucinda Chambers (Fashion Director Vogue UK). He garnered a lot of interest in the collection - Dita Von Teese, Emma Watson and Jade Parfait have all requested pieces to wear. The designer’s first collection was featured in The Sunday Times Style, ES magazine and on Vogue.com. With the buzz surrounding Tempest, it seems world wide-wide recognition is just around the corner.

William Tempest grew up intrigued by the arts and knew he wanted to do something creative at a very young age. At first, he dabbled with thoughts of becoming an architect or interior designer. Fashion was another area of interest for artistically inclined adolescent, “I’ve always been interested in different identities and used to really enjoy dressing up when I was younger” said Tempest. “I was fascinated with how garments were made and wanted to learn how to pattern cut and construct them.”

William was raised in the rural country-side of Cheshire – not exactly a fashion Mecca. His trips into the more fashionable city of Manchester as a young lad would be the catalyst that would define his destiny, “I started to look in the department stores and designer shops. I used to enjoy it so much”, said Tempest. “I decided on a career in Fashion when I was 15, it was a natural progression, and I was always interested in art and making things.”

At age 16, Tempest decided to leave high school and enrolled on a BTEC Diploma – a vocational qualifier in the UK – to study fashion design and pattern making. At 18, he moved to London and enrolled in the London College of Fashion, but he already had a two-year head start in design, “I had already been studying fashion for two years since I was 16 so I found the first two years of university relatively easy,” said Tempest. “I think more than anything it was learning to be responsible for myself and to stand on my own two feet”

While in college, Tempest worked under famed London fashion designer Giles Deacon, “I started as an intern but, after 10 weeks I was offered a position as a pattern cutter,” said Tempest. “I think the most valuable thing I learnt is seeing how the business operates and the timing of how it fits together.”

Tempest’s graduate collection was inspired by 1940’s film noir which made a bold statement at “Graduate Fashion Week”, “I was inspired by the drama and glamour of the story lines and the way some scenes are shot with such harsh lightning,” said Tempest. “My graduate collection is where I learnt the most. Mostly learning that making a collection requires so many people to perform well and on time to enable you to reach your deadlines, its things like fabric suppliers, deliveries being made on time, sample machinists etc…” The collection was also selected to be shown at “The Royal Academy of the Arts” and got tons of media attention from the likes of vogue.com, Harpers Bazaar and the BCC London News. It was also shown on stage during the Bryan Ferry performance at the “Concert for Diana” at Wembley Stadium.

Upon graduation, Tempest moved to Paris to work under Jean Charles de Castelbajac. While at Castelbajac he was given a project to design boxing robes and a sports outfit for Madonna which was used in a photo shoot to promote her latest album, “I was working none stop on the project and was constantly between London and Paris each day,” said Tempest. “The most important thing I learnt from jean Charles is to go with what you feel, regardless of any one else opinion, and don't compromise on anything.”

In January 2008, Tempest returned to London to create his own label. He is currently designing and producing his collection for S/S 09. The collection will be shown at 'London Fashion Week' this September, “My initial inspiration was from the great age of travel and I visited Mauritius where I took photographs, some under water, to inspire prints and colors,” said Tempest. “There is a lot of art deco influence in the collection in terms of silhouette and style lines. Look for streamline, razor-sharp and beautifully cut evening-wear.” The clothing is said to be ready-to-wear with a couture edge.

Currently, Tempest’s clothing is produced on a special order basis and the prices reflect the attention to detail which run upwards of $4000.00. The garments from his last collection are made to order and are sold through www.ninaandlola.com - a London based online store.

William Tempest is well on his way to becoming a global success. His clothing is modern, fun and impeccably made. All I can say is watch this designer.

Tony Engelhart

As appeared in Icongrahy Magazine Spring 2009

For Your Eyes Only

2009-04-22T15:43:00.000-07:00

Sunglasses do much more than protect your eyes from the sun; they make a statement about who you are. This season aviator sunglasses have made a comeback. Nevertheless don’t limit yourself to the standard Ray Ban style; there are plenty more choices that are comparably priced that make a much bolder statement.

For the budget conscious, Armani Exchange offers stylish aviators in shiny black or soft beige which feature gradient lenses with the A/X logo. Price $70

Giorgio Armani offers aviators in lightweight metal frames with plastic at the temples and logo accents. With 100% UV protection, they come in your choice of dark Havana green or dark ruthenium black. Price $295

Gucci aviators are unisex and come in lightweight silvertone metal with contrasting brow bar. Your choice of antique gold Havana brown or ruthenium black-dark grey, they feature tinted lenses and logo accents. Price $320

David Yurman show off an array of aviator sunglasses in their Phantom Collection. In gold, gunmetal or black, each pair features the Rubberon David Yurman cable and custom ZEISS lenses. Gold frames feature 20k gold electroplating while the black feature onyx PVD. Priced from $495 to $595

Dior Homme sunglasses demonstrate quality craftsmanship and attention to detail in every pair. These lightweight metal glasses come in stylish black or warm brown and feature a sculpted plastic temple and tinted lenses. Price is $285

Tom Ford began his company designing eyewear. His take on aviators comes in three styles; The John is a double bar oval shape whereas The Charles is closer to the original style. In black or brown, they offer 100% UVA protection and logo accents. Price $320 – The Cyrille are classic aviator, but feature a resin frame, goldtone temples and gradient brown lenses. Price $430

Dolce and Gabbana have always been a bit more daring and their take on aviator sunglasses is no exception as they offer three bold styles. With no brow bar, the first pair comes in black or the daring combination of gold and black with smoke lenses. Price $365 – Their 70’s retro style feature double metal frames, engraved logo plate and flex hinges. Price $380 – The Clip-detail aviators feature a sporty metal clip detail, acetate temples and block logo. Price $160

Ermenegildo Zenga aviators come in elegant gold metal with zebrano wood at the temple and gradient brow bar. With logo accents, they are as stylish as they are comfortable. Price $420

As will appear in Kasanova Magazine May 2009

Tony Engelhart

Spring (Fashion) Forward

2009-04-21T14:39:00.001-07:00

I have always been a firm believer in making a statement with my wardrobe. Even during my time in the corporate world, I would go against the grain and dandy up my drab Brooks Brothers suits with bold ties and colorful socks. Now that I am liberated from a stuffy dress code, I have the freedom to be breezy with fashion and experiment with my look.

Spring has sprung and it’s time to put your wools in hibernation for the next 4 months. While you don’t need to give everything from last season to charity, a good majority of it has to go if you want to stay current. You can hang onto your basic cotton and linen blazers from last year as they are a staple for spring/summer and are always good to throw and go for your weekend excursions, but you’re going to want to add some new ones in the latest cuts and colors for a fresh look. Flat front slacks are still preferred over pleats, but we’re seeing the return of the cuff in many collections. Strictly for the bold, blazers paired with shorts is a spicy trend for the warm days ahead.

Here are my picks for the season from three distinctly different designers. The one thing they have in common is a distinct look.

When it comes to weekend wear, look no further than Michael Bastian for your casual needs. Bastian, a recent nominee for the 2009 CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year, has redefined American sportswear much in the way Ralph Lauren did back in the day and his latest collection is American with a European twist. Taking inspiration from the 1976 film The Lifeguard, the new line from the New York designer is chock full of shorts, cutoffs and swimwear bottoms in an array of colors. Paired with cotton blazers, shirts and sweaters, the look is retro with a modern twist. For the office, Bastian offers lightweight suits, blazers and trousers in neutral colors. Worn with a striped shirt and skinny tie, this look is casual Friday which is appropriate for everyday. For evening you will find swanky tailored suits and shawl collared sports coats paired with tuxedo shirts and neatly tied bowties.

When it comes to classic style with an edge, Ermenegildo Zegna has lead the way in men’s wear since 1910. The Italian fashion house produces their garments with impeccable attention to detail. For Spring the Zegna house is offering their signature two-button suits in 15MILMIL silk blended with 15 micron wool, 600 silk with trofeo wool, poplin weave and silk blended with cotton, cashmere or linen. While earth tones are the predominate palette, you will find sophisticated black and crisp white through out the collection. They also bring back the double-breast, the mandarin collar and peak lapels sparingly, but effectively. Sportswear doesn’t have to be casual and at Ermenegildo Zegna they design tailored pieces in linen, cotton, silk, seersucker and leather. If you don’t want to buy off the rack, the tailors at Zegna will custom tailor your suits, sports jackets, pants, shirts, and ties using their established artisan method. Made to order clothing can be delivered within a few weeks of your fitting and is well worth the short wait.

Best known for his work as creative director for both Gucci and Yves Saint-Laurent, Tom Ford put the glamour back into women’s high fashion. After parting ways with both houses, Ford opened his own house and began designing accessories. He has now turned his attention to menswear which is designed with just as much extravagates as his work in women’s couture. For spring 2009, Ford shows us classic Tom and while the clothing is not made for the reserved man, it is extremely suitable for those wanting to be overtly conspicuous. It’s not the fact that the vibrant colors haven’t been used in menswear before; rather it’s the placement of color which makes a daring declaration as Ford pairs a crisp white blazer with both ruby red and rose pink trousers. Suits are featured in solid red, tan and bold plaids with trousers cut so they fall just above the ankle. All jackets feature very wide peak lapels in silk, wool and cashmere. While other designers are going skinny, Ford’s neckwear is wide, I mean really wide. Paired with hand tailored mini-check shirts, these plaid ties are loud and proud.

There are many choices for spring and hopefully one of these three designers will "suit" your personal style; pun intended.

As will appear in Kasanova Magazine May 2009

Tony Engelhart

Trendspotting - Fall Trends 2008

2009-04-20T13:30:00.000-07:00

It might be smack dab in the middle of winter, but it’s not too late to do some updating to your cold weather wardrobe. If you have the basics covered, there are several ways to modernize your look by way of adding some of the hottest new prints to your existing frigidity staples. Though some of these prints are nothing groundbreaking, they are patterns that are typically found during Spring and Summer which makes them surprisingly fresh for the winter.
For those women who want to explore their wild side, animal prints are an extremely bold statement for winter. Leopard, Jaguar, Cheetah and Zebra were all over the runways leading up to the season. From knee-high boots, ankle-length dresses, faux fur coats and parkas, it is perfectly acceptable to go head-to-toe in animal prints. However, for those women who tend to dress conservatively, but want to add a bit of adventure to their unadventurous closet, it is easy to incorporate this trend by way of animal print shoes, belts, handbags and scarves. “Animal prints typically go in and out of style rapidly. You usually see an influx in designers using them every few years for a few seasons,” said Shannon Hunter, lead designer at House of High Maintenance in Seattle, WA. “It speaks to our rebelliousness as a society to be different but can also be worn conservatively. Animal prints are certainly not your average, every day common pattern. It's fun and flirty and can be used in a wide variety of ways.”
Floral prints, while usually associated with warmer months, are making their way into the colder month ahead. Though, don’t expect to find these in pastels. The floral prints for the season are in deeper shades of red, purple and burgundy. In textured fabrics such as heavy cotton, merino wool, and weighty silk, these floral printed pieces are a way to bring some much needed color to the grey days of winter.
Plaid is back and it’s no big surprise; it seems this age-old pattern have been a staple for winter forever. Yet, the Scottish inspired print can make just as bold of a statement as a red dress at a funeral. This season, rather than traditional red and black, plaids are being featured in muted tones of grey, blue, green and brown. The trick to wearing plaid is to not wear more than one piece at a time. If you wear a plaid jacket, for God sake, don’t wear a plaid skirt. The look will be too overbearing.
Now that the leaves have fallen and winter is upon us, all of the usual fabric suspects have made a return. Wool, cashmere, fleece and mohair are all meant to shield us from the cold while providing a luxurious look. But this season there are more choices in which we can stay warm while looking fierce.
Despite the animal rights movement, fur is back and back in a big way. Whether it’s a full length mink coat or a cropped sable jacket, fur pieces made their way down nearly every catwalk leading up to the fall/winter season. Fur trimmed collars, cuffs or other embellishments on accessories such as gloves are ways to wear fur in a more subtle fashion.
If you don’t want to risk having red paint thrown on your fur coat, but still like the look of fur, it is perfectly acceptable to wear faux fur. Not only is it a lot less costly, it feels and looks authentic, “Faux Fur is very popular for the socially-conscious and fashion has taken a turn towards trying to be as green as possible the past few seasons,” said Hunter. “It is humane in that it is synthetic so no animals are harmed for their coats. Faux Fur also has a wide range of abilities to be dyed and patterned in ways that is more complicated using real fur.”
Leather is yet another material that has PETA up in arms, but it seems this is one textile that has a reoccurring life. Leather shoes, bags, jackets and accessories are, and always will be, a staple in a woman’s wardrobe. This season we are seeing waxy leather and tile-pattern leather which is a bit trendy, but a fun way to update your look without breaking the bank. There is no need to stick with black or brown as jewel tones and metallic are a hot alternative. Nubuck and suede are another way to wear leather for a more organic look. For the more eco-friendly woman, faux leather has come a long way and actually gives her more options. Croc and snake skin are much more affordable in faux fashion and looks and feels like the real deal.
While tweed is generally associated with menswear, designers have incorporated into their women’s collections for winter. Although it is a warm fabric, it can be a bit stuffy if not worn properly. Tweed is best in small doses and one should never wear more than one piece at a time. Pair a tweed jacket with a plain pencil skirt or even a pair of jeans for a rustically chic appearance.

As appeared in Vestiture Magazine Fall 2007

Tony Engelhart

Confessions of a Metrosexual

2009-04-18T16:05:00.000-07:00

Like most men when I first heard the term “metrosexual” I thought to myself, “huh”? While the term was first coined in an article by Mark Simpson called Here Comes the Mirror Men in 1994, I didn’t become aware of the label until I began watching Bravo TV’s Queer Eye for the Straight Guy in 2003. Having always been referred to as a “pretty boy” or a “dandy” – a term which is defined by Webster as “a man who is excessively concerned about his clothes and appearance” - and even having had my sexuality questioned even though I had always dated women, I was delighted that I finally had an specific identify – I was a metrosexual and out of the preverbal closet.

For the last time, being a metrosexual says nothing about ones sexuality. Rather, being metrosexual says quite a bit about personal style and grooming habits. If you’re unsure, there are ways to confirm you are metrosexual. If you read GQ rather than Sports Illustrated, you’re probably metrosexual. If you have your eyebrows trimmed when getting your hair cut, you’re probably metrosexual. If you go tanning during the winter, you’re probably metrosexual. If your nails are manicured, you use moisturizer daily, love shopping for clothes and shoes (and are you’re not gay), you’re definitely a metrosexual and that’s ok.

Possibly one of the most famous examples of a metrosexual was Richard Gere’s character, Julian Kaye, in the 1980 film, American Gigolo. Wearing designer everything, Julian was the role model for many young men who were obsessed with looking like the high priced male prostitute. With clean and simple lines, Julian also had the preeminent bachelor pad for the time. Then there was his car, a Mercedes-Benz R107 convertible in jet black, which added to his affluence while complementing his style. But more than what he possessed materially, what came across was is attention to detail in everything from color coordinating his wardrobe to flawlessly grooming his hair. For quite a few would-be metrosexuals in my age bracket, 40 to 45, the film was validation that caring about how you look didn’t make you a “sissy”. Besides the whole prostitution thing, Julian Kaye helped me to define who I am and inspired me to continue with my, what would be known as, metrosexual ways with confidence.

How do I know I am metrosexual? My closet is full of designer wear – Hugo Boss, Versace, Calvin Klein – arranged by color and category on cherry wood hangers while my shoes are aligned on a shoe rack with cedar shoe trees in each pair. I take great pride in my appearance, both in the way I dress as well as keeping nicely groomed including manicures, pedicures, waxing, moisturizing and a haircut every two weeks without fail. I live in the city – Seattle – in a luxury apartment in which I did the interior design. I love shopping new clothes, dining in fine restaurants, attending cultural events and I am a journalist who specializes in fashion. Even my Yahoo ID screams metrosexual: fashionableman2002; as does my cat’s name: Cosmopolitan – Cosmo for short. The only thing that is not metrosexual about me anymore is, as defined by the Simpson article, I’m not single – I’m recently married. My wife not only embraces my metrosexuality, she takes great pride that I am since she knows I will be the best dressed man at any function we attend.

For those of you who fear being mistaken for gay, it’s probably best if you stay in the closet for now. It takes more self-confidence to be openly metrosexual than to it does to wear a sports jersey and baseball cap. After all, the term applies heterosexual men who take extra pride in their appearance and whose lifestyles are associated with stereotypically gay men. One must be secure with who he is to be metrosexual. So the question is: are you man enough to be a metrosexual?

As appeared in Urban Metro Magazine Fall 2008

Tony Engelhart

Economics of Color

2009-04-18T16:00:00.000-07:00

There is no denying that the economy is in a downward spiral and it may take years for it to recover despite President Barack Obama’s best efforts. With the Dow fluctuating on a daily basis, it’s no wonder that retail shops are empty; people are severely cutting back on luxury purchases, including apparel. One need only look at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week back in the fall of 2008 as proof that designers are aware of this trend: Vera Wang went without a tent and Calvin Klein scrapped his infamous after party. As we approach Spring, we will begin to see color as more important than design.

“The economy certainly does influence color, though I think in a different way than past years,” said designer and owner of Salvationware in Seattle, WA, Jmi. “This time around, when Spring 09 was in the works, designers were trying to offer some kind of glimmer of hope and cheeriness for the future - a renewal for Spring. I am not sure however, that they anticipated things being as bad as we're approaching the actual season itself.” Jmi sees this is making a big impact on whether or not consumers will continue buying trendy colors and designs and believes they will begin sticking with more what is necessary and lasting.

While earth tones are creeping back by way of muted browns, plum, orange and yellow one of this season’s hottest trends is the return of extremely loud color, “One bright color that pops, worn with white or black, seems to be a big trend for spring. Think 80's: bright yellow, pink or blue, even some fluorescent colors,” said Jmi. “I honestly didn't imagine them returning.”

Another trend we are seeing is a return of plaids and florals – sometimes being mixed together for some unique and daring combinations. “All of the outfits seem to have one eye-catching twist- sometimes it is the color used, but I see it also with the sheen of the fabric, or a metallic luster,” said Jmi.

Save your black linen jackets and silk skirts from last season as black still seems to be a staple for this Spring. Neutrals seem more predominant than usual- especially a nude, tan or beige.
Two other color trends which are making a statement are polar opposites. The Casual color trend serves the metropolitan woman as concrete city colors are showing up in glassy blues and unnatural pinks. The Classic color trend suits the suburban women with shades of coral blue and sandy reds.

Michelle Obama's influence on fashion is refreshing as she is showing how to be classy and chic without spending a million bucks to do so. “Women will take note of that, and thrift will supersede trend, but they can stay stylish and contemporary nonetheless, by keeping an eye on what is current, though perhaps just dipping a toe in the water, rather than jumping in head first!” said Jmi. “Michelle Obama's head to toe lemongrass for example, will probably not be something you really see on the street, but it was highly appropriate for both the occasion, and her style!” A more universal example of that trend for the casual wearer might be a pretty blouse, or even a cute hat, paired with more neutral colors for the rest of the outfit.

For those consumers hit by the recession, it is recommended to simply buy the more trendy colored accessories from "fast fashion" retailers, since it is not such an investment. Meanwhile shoppers should buy a nicer staple piece from the department or specialty store to pair with your existing Spring wardrobe.

As the economy improves, styles will again become more dramatic for all you fashionista’s. But for now, ride out the storm, hold onto your hat and spend your fashion dollars wisely.

As appeared in Vestiture Magazine Spring 2009

Tony Engelhart

Dress Your Age

2009-04-18T15:53:00.000-07:00

You might have a smoking hot body, and you might not need Botox, but if you’re not twenty-something anymore, please don’t try and dress like you are. I know it’s a difficult realization but, if you are over the age of 35, it is probably time to start rethinking what is in your wardrobe. But before you throw everything in your closet out, allow me to guide you through the no-no’s and yes-yes’s of dressing your age.
You’ve seen her – we’ve all seen her – the 40-something-year-old woman who dresses like Lindsay and Britney. As she struts around in her low-rise jeans, spiked heels and midriff tank, she draws attention to herself, but it’s not the kind of positive interest she thinks she’s getting. Rather, the gawks and stares she gets are those of “I can’t believe she’s wearing that.” The reason for the negative reaction to her outfit is that she is not dressed age-appropriately and is in desperate need of a style intervention – not to mention a wake-up call that she can’t pull off dressing like a teen idol anymore.
The first thing a woman needs to do when she reaches her mid-30s is to identify her own personal style and build on it. While it isn’t necessary to go ultra-conservative, the days of showing too much skin are over. When choosing jeans, stick with a mid-rise and avoid trendy washes. Skirts should be worn above the knee and tops should not be worn with the girls or the belly exposed – although a backless halter is acceptable. Tight-fitting garments expose flaws, but even if you have no apparent imperfections, fits should be tailored for a sophisticated look.
When shopping for a new wardrobe, choose classic pieces. Example: The pencil skirt is a must-have for any professional woman over 35. Cut close to the hip with two slits – front and back or sides – this skirt falls just above the knee and can be worn with a tailored jacket or a simple blouse.
Staying current doesn’t mean you have to be trendy and is easily achievable with accessories. If you want to add some funky details to your wardrobe, choose bracelets, necklaces and earrings with some character. Currently, chunky jewelry is all the rage. Usually made of plastic, this jewelry an affordable way to give your new look some pop. Belts worn at the waist are a great way to enhance your figure at any age and are another affordable accessory you will get a lot of mileage out of.
You need not give up your sex appeal just because you aren’t wearing skin-tight clothing anymore. Choose pieces that enhance your best features. If you have great legs, show them with a skirt that is slit on the sides. If you have a nice chest, showing a “little” cleavage is totally acceptable – just be sure you have a supportive bra. Well-fitting clothes are what make a woman sexy, so avoid baggy or loose-fitting garments.
Shoes are the most important accessory in your wardrobe and should be chosen with as much forethought as your clothing. First and foremost, avoid shopping in the juniors department. Choose classic pumps with a pointed or open toe – square or round toes tend to look unadventurous. Don’t be afraid of color. While a black pair is versatile, a red pair makes a statement. Heels should not be over two to three inches unless you’re a stripper.
If you’re 50-plus, the rules change, but not a whole lot, so don’t ship your entire wardrobe off to the Goodwill quite yet. It has been said that 50 is the new 30, and while that might be true, the fact is, at 50 you’re probably a grandmother and not a new mommy. The level of sophistication of your clothing needs to reflect your new status of a mature woman. Stay with tailored clothing but minimize the amount of accessories. Avoid light-washed jeans and t-shirts. Skirts should fall below the knee and tops should not show any cleavage.
According to a new book by Cindi Leive, Glamour Do’s and Don’ts, confidence is everything. When in doubt, trust your gut instinct. If you don’t feel comfortable in an outfit, your unease will show.

As appeared in Vestiture Magazine Fall 2008

Tony Engelhart