Style Returns To the White House

Not since the Kennedy’s occupied the White House have fashion and politics merged once the Obama’s came to Washington. John F. Kennedy had a young, hip yet conservative style as he fancied pin stripe tailored suits from Brooks Brothers. When vacationing, he could often be spotted in khaki slacks, a basic white cotton button and those iconic Ray Ban Wayfarer sunglasses. Jackie Kennedy was the most elegant first lady in history up until the early 1960s and her status as such remained untouched for decades. Wearing designer gowns by Oleg Cassini, she was the embodiment of style and sophistication. Her trendsetting pillbox hat was designed by Halston while her jackets were Chanel inspired. In April of 2001, the Metropolitan Museum featured the ultimate first lady of style’s most famous outfits in an exhibit called Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years.

The Obama’s parallel the Kennedy’s in many ways. Not only are they are both Democrats and both brought small children into the White House, but there is an aura of elegance which surrounds the couple. President Barack Obama doesn’t just walk into a room; rather, he swaggers in with an unapologetic confidence. First Lady, Michelle Obama has a style that is uniquely her own and appears comfortable in her role.

Barack Obama is untouchably the sharpest dressed President the United States has ever had in the both the 20th and 21st centuries. Unlike Carter, Regan, HW Bush, Clinton or GW, he rocks the two piece suit with an undeniable coolness. Maybe it is because he prefers slim cut suits from legendary clothier, Burberry. While still Senator Obama and candidate Obama, he purchased his suits “off the rack”, but after he wrapped up the nomination he wore a custom made $1500 Hartmarx suit in navy blue made of 97% merino wool and 3% cashmere to the acceptance speech. Still not ready to embrace flat front slacks, his pants were pleated and cuffed – hey, he had to appeal to conservatives as well as liberals. The President also shops at Barneys of NY.
Attention to detail is important to the President and his wrist watch is evidence of this. No, it’s not a $20,000 Rolex or even a Movado, but rather it is a classic Jorg Gray known as the Series 6500 chronograph which is a sophisticated, but not flashy choice. As for ties, Obama sticks with classic solids and the occasional diagonal stripe for that “presidential” look. Like JFK, his choice in sunglasses is Ray Ban.

Now let’s talk about the latest style icon, Mrs. Barack Obama. From the get go, Michelle has been the most glamorous First Lady since Jackie O. Starting at the inauguration ceremony, she wore a stunning canary yellow dress and jacket by designer Isabel Toledo. Hours after the ceremony, The Dress barn and Bluefly.com were flooded with calls from women wanting a similar look for less. Since then, she has proven her style to be chic and sophisticated, but has never been pretentious. Rather than wearing established designer’s clothing, she leans towards up and coming designers such as Wu, Toledo, Narciso Rodriguez and Thakoon Panichgul which is ushering a new crop of talented clothing designers and giving them a platform from which they can establish themselves. For casual wear, often her choices are from the very affordable J. Crew.



In January of 2011, she made headlines when she wore a flaming red dress by Alexander McQueen to greet the People Republic of China. While she was criticized by legendary designer Oscar de la Renta for wearing a European designer’s gown while trying to encourage trade relations between the US and China, she still looked breathtaking. Besides, she wouldn’t wear Oscar anyway.
At the State of the Union address on January 25th, she redeemed herself by wearing a putty colored sheath dress by American designer by Rachel Roy. Her black and white ribbon was to honor the recent shooting victim Representative Gabrielle Giffords.







As appeared in Icongraphy the Magazine Spring 2011

Fabrics

Even though a suit made of manmade materials might cost less, don’t make this mistake – trust me, I’ve done it. Fibers such as Viscose, rayon and polyester do not breathe as well as natural fibers. Besides, these fibers break down and end up looking worn and cheap.

When choosing a suit, you should stick with wool. There are many reasons for picking wool. Wool is water resistant, it is moisture wicking, is a fantastic insulator, it regulates temperature, is breathable and it blends well with other fabrics.

Wool comes in many weights.

For Spring/Summer, choose tropical wool.
Tropical weight wool is two-ply, plain weave worsted wool which is sturdy yet lightweight. Often referred to as summer wool, it is used for the production warm weather suits.

For the colder month, choose worsted wool.
Worsted wool is manufactured in Worsted, England and has been since the 18th century. The wool fibers are spun into compact and smoothly twisted yarn prior to weaving. Worsted wool goes through a second process in which unwanted shorter fibers are removed causing the longer fibers to lay flat. Besides being breathable, worsted wool is wrinkle and crease resistant thus is a great choice when purchasing a suit.
Now you must decide which grade of wool you want in a suit, Super 100's, Super 110's, Super 120's, or Super 150's. The differences are measured by fiber microns. An example would be Super 100 wool contains fibers which are finer than 18 microns, whereas Super 150 contains fibers which are finer than 15 microns. In laymen’s terms, the higher the number, the softer the fabric is. In fact, Super wool 150 is finer than cashmere. Personally, I like wools between 120 and 150.



Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Pant Cuffs

Stylish men face a critical choice when purchasing slacks; to cuff or not to cuff. Cuffing or not cuffing slacks comes down to personal choice and there is no right or wrong answer. While the current trend is flat front slacks without cuffs, some men still prefer pleated slacks with cuffs. Cuffs look best on tall men, while shorter men will appear taller without cuffs. Slacks which are made of heavier material such as flannel look best if cuffed because they add weight. Cuffs are not necessary with flat front slacks, but add to the overall aesthetic to pleated slacks. Pants with cuffs are considered to be dressier while pants without cuffs are considered to be more European and fashion forward. The proper width of a cuff should only be 1 ¼ inch – no more, no less.

Cuffs will always be in style no matter what the fashion rags say. They have a rich heritage dating back to King Edward the VII in the 1890s and crossed the Atlantic in the early 20th century to become the standard in stylish menswear. Cuff or no cuff; it is really up to you.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Choosing a Tie

In the business world a tie is a must because it’s an indication of trust, but choosing the right one can be a challenge for some men. The tie says more about your personal style as well as your personality than anything else in your wardrobe.

The first rule of thumb when picking a tie, always choose silk or wool, no polyester. While there are many patterns to choose from, some should be avoided no matter if your wife thinks it’s cute or not. Novelty ties, such as Christmas or cartoon ties, are a no-no, even at the company’s party. Stick will diagonal stripes, subtle paisley, dots, repp stripes or solid patterns. Solids are striking especially when made of high quality woven silk. A solid tie is black, navy, burgundy or gray with a crisp white dress shirt demands respect.

The width of a tie is just as important as the pattern you choose. The standard width of a tie is around 3 inches. However, slim ties measuring 2 inches are back in vogue as are wider ties measuring 4 inches. Anything skinnier or wider is not recommended.

Matching a tie with a shirt and suit is not as tricky as it might sound. Blue suits are most versatile as you can wear almost every tie and shirt combination. Examples would be blue and yellow or burgundy and blue. Another striking color combination is monochrome. Black on black and grey on grey are two great examples.
Tying a tie properly is a must. There are four basic knots.
• The Four in Hand knot is an asymmetrical knot which is best for button down shirts.
• The Pratt knot is fairly wide and is suited for most dress shirts.
• The Half Windsor is a symmetrical knot that can go with any shirt collar.
• The Windsor knot is wide and triangular knot which is a great option for the spread collar shirt.

Depending on the weight of the tie and the collar of your shirt, every man should master all four.



Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Accessories

Every well dressed man should know how to accessorize without looking like a cast member of “Goodfellas” – no pinky rings please. The first thing you should know about accessories is less is better. The accessory you choose should enhance your style, not retract from it, and so choose wisely.

Accessories are items you wear for two purposes. First, utility such as a belt or a watch and two, to enhance your style such as a ring or a bracelet. With so many ways to accessorize your wardrobe, let’s stick with the basics – accessories 101 if you will.

Belts are optional these days. If your trousers fit, it is perfectly acceptable to go beltless. However, if you want or need to wear a belt make sure it matches your shoes. Black belt – black shoes, brown belt – brown shoes.

Cufflinks are a choice, not a necessity unless you only wear French cuff shirts. When choosing cufflinks, don’t be too “blingy” and novelty cufflinks are just plain tacky. Stick with simple designs that are eye catching, but not flashy. Cufflinks with inlays, such as wood, are always a tasteful choice.

Pocket Squares are another accessory that are optional, but will make your suit or sports jacket pop. While you can buy matching ties and pocket squares, try mixing it up. A clean white cotton or a silk plaid pocket square makes a bigger statement than if you are too “matchy”. There are several ways to fold a pocket square, just make sure the tag isn’t showing.

Braces or suspenders are making a comeback. If braces still seem too dated for your taste and always remind you of Gordon Gecko from the 1980s classic “Wall Street”, than you might want to think twice about investing in them. Still, if you want to wear them, don’t wear the clip on type. Invest some money and have brace buttons sewn into your slacks.

The tie bar is back and is arguably a utility accessory. When choosing a tie bar, stick with a simple silver and make sure the bar is not too big or too small for the tie. Same rules as cufflinks apply: nothing too “blingy” and nothing with a theme.

The manbag is big these days and I don’t just mean in size. That’s right, a shoulder bag has all but replaced those stuffy brief cases. This is definitely a utility accessory because you can carry everything from a laptop to a fresh shirt in them. These should always be made of leather, not pleather.

The scarf can be either a utility or a fashion accessory. On the one hand, it is made to keep you warm. On the other hand, it is very European looking. When choosing a scarf, be bold and select a pattern such as plaid and no acrylic. A scarf should be made of wool, no exceptions.

Socks are not often thought of as an accessory, but they are. Whether argyle or fun color combinations, patterned socks can make even the drabbest wingtips come to life. Match your socks to shirt for an understated detail that will surely be noticed.

Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Buying a Dress Shirt

Choosing the right dress shirt makes an important statement about your wardrobe. The type of shirt you pick will define your personal style and determine your status.

First and foremost, choose 100 percent cotton. The reasons behind this are, cotton breathes and looks crisp. While polyester and cotton blended shirts are wash and wear, the fibers tend to break down quicker leaving pilling in its wake. Besides, they look cheap. Ply count is another important option to consider. The higher the ply count, the softer the cotton will be. The weave of the fabric is just as important as the ply count. Oxford cotton last for a long time and have a basket weave which that is extremely soft. Broadcloth is a tightly woven cotton fabric with a silky feel. Poplin cotton, my personal favorite, is woven with a horizontal rib effect and is heavier which makes it great for colder months while Twill cotton has a diagonal weave which is light and great for the warmer months.

The type of collar you choose will say more about your personal style than anything else in your closet. Straight point collars have a V-shape and are the most common collars in menswear and are best for a small knotted tie. For more casual look, the button down collar is a great option because they can be worn with or without a tie and still be perfectly acceptable. The spread collar is reserved for professional men who like the full Windsor know – think Donald Trump. Less common, but equally as stylish are the tab collar, the club collar and the pinned collar.

Sleeve length is very important. Too long looks sloppy and too short looks ridiculous. Sleeves should rest at the end of your wrist. To ensure this affect, choose shirts that are exactly as long as your arm.

Cuffs come is three styles and each are acceptable in menswear. Barrel cuffs are most common because they do not require any accessories. Currently, vertical double buttons are considered stylish, but one button is standard in most shirts. The French cuffs are considered to be more formal than barrel cuffs as they require cufflinks. This is a great option for a job interview or an evening out. Convertible cuffs are more versatile for the can be buttoned or use cufflinks.
Pockets are yet another consideration when choosing a dress shirt. The one pocket is most common and can be used to hold items such as pens. Two pocket shirts are less formal and should not require a tie. No pocket dress shirts are a bit more fashion forward, but are an elegant choice for the style conscious man.

The fit of a dress shirt is, again, a matter of personal style. Regular fitted shirts are a bit looser and allow for ease of movement. Trim fit, or athletic fit, is cut so the shirt hugs your torso. Full fitted dress shirts are cut for men of a larger stature and are generally longer.

Solid color shirts are most versatile because they can be matched with bold ties and pattern suits and sport jackets. Prints are fine, but you must pick a tie that does not clash or steal the spotlight. While pattern mixing has become acceptable, if you are unsure, choose a solid tie to go with a printed shirt.



Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.

Buying a Suit

If you find yourself in the suit section of a department store and find yourself completely overwhelmed, don’t worry, you’re not alone. With so many choices, the undertaking of purchasing a suit can be a daunting task. But rather than having the salesperson dictate your choice, be armed and ready with the knowledge you’ll need to make this acquisition.

Buying a suit is an investment, if for no other reason, the price. A quality suit will generally run you $350 to $500, so make sure you know what you want. The first thing you will need to decide is what type of suit you want. There are many choices, but the most common are the one button, the two button, the three button and the double breasted. Currently the two button is enjoying a comeback after years of three button popularity. This is not say you shouldn’t consider the three button, but the trend is definitely the two button suit with flat front slacks. The double breasted seems to be making a comeback, but slowly – very slowly and the one button is reserved for the fashion forward.

Know your size: Either measure yourself or have yourself measured before investing in a suit. There is nothing more frumpy looking than wearing a suit that is even one size too big and there is nothing more uncomfortable than wearing a suit that is too small. The shoulders should fit at the natural shoulder, the buttons shouldn’t be too high or too low, the jacket should be the same length as your arms and the cuffs of the jacket should hit at the hinge of your wrists. The slacks should rest on your hip – not your belly and should hit the top on your shoes, although some men prefer a slight break which is a perfectly acceptable option too. A fitted suit can empower you and make you feel more confident.

Details, details, details: Decide on what vents you want. If you are conservative, stick with the center vent. If you are a bit more daring, go for side vents. The notch lapel is most common, however, the peak lapel on a single breasted suit makes an elegant statement.

To cuff or not to cuff the slacks, that is the question. This really comes down to personal choice and there is no right or wrong answer.

For first time suit buyers I recommend a solid navy for the simple reason, navy is extremely versatile. You can wear the jacket with grey, tan or khaki slacks and vs. versa for the slacks. Besides being interchangeable, navy goes with almost every shirt and tie combo – except black of course.




Written for the Miles David - Mens Custom Clothier website.